an eats getaway

…ridiculous to sublime

On Sep 11, 2011, I got an email from Amy Winn, a colleague from Builders Booksource back in the day when I was managing partner of the San Francisco store. Amy wrote:

Hello all, Please come see Nick’s latest work at our home as part of Mendocino Art Center’s September Open Studios tour, September 17-18 and 24-25; 10am to 5pm. We hope to see you! Cheers, Amy Wynn and Nick Taylor

Sometime around 2004, Amy and her partner, Nick, bought two barns in Ohio and had them dismantled and moved to Fort Bragg. Nick was working on “The Bean” in Chicago’s Millennium Park at the time and Amy was the book buyer for Builders Booksource Berkeley. She taught me pretty much everything I know about the book business. They started off by spending a week here and a week there re-assembling the barns on their Fort Bragg land, then moved into an Airstream there and started the reconstruction of what would become their home and studio. I don’t think I’ve seen Amy since, but we have exchanged pictures and corresponded. What a great way to revisit a friendship and go for a weekend getaway! I fired back —

On Sep 12, 2011, at 9:49 AM, Marcus Rector wrote: Amy and Nick, Thanks for the invite! We’re eager to see your place. Will let you know which day soon. Marcus

On Sep 12, 2011, at 10:17 AM, Amy wrote: That would be fantastic, Marcus.  It would be great to see you both.  Be forewarned: the house is finished, but the landscaping still has a bit to go. xoxo a

On Sep 21, 2011, at 2:46 PM, Marcus Rector wrote: Amy and Nick, We have Google Map directions and plan to arrive Saturday afternoon. I don’t think we’ve seen anything about your house since pictures of logs and a layout on the ground. We’re really excited about seeing you and it. Until Saturday, Marcus

Saturday morning in San Francisco was foggy and cold. I figured we could be outta here by 9:30 and by gosh, we backed out of the garage at 9:34. We polled ourselves on an over/under of when we might see the sun — C said San Rafael, I said I hoped Corte Madera — and just when we came out of the tunnel and over the hill on 101, there was the sun in our eyes. Good start. By 11am we were in Cloverdale at mile 85 of our trip, and decided to go to Boonville via 128 this time. (Normally we go on up 101 to Ukiah and take Rt. 253 to Boonville, stopping for lunch at the Bluebird Cafe in Hopland. Less curvy that way.) In any case, we arrived at Buckhorn Boonville just in time for Brunch. They have good food and local beer, not a bad combination, except their portions are agonizingly large.

bo_sign

inside the buckhorn... some buckhorns

inside the buckhorn... some buckhorns

chicken fried steak and egg... next time, we'll order one and split it

chicken fried steak and egg... ridiculously large, next time, we'll order one and split it

hash and egg

hash and egg

As it turned out, right across the street, the Boonville Saturday Farmers Market was going on. Now, I’m a sucker for farmers markets so I just had to step in and give it a look.

Continue reading

FISH STORY FEATURING CORN

The black cod of FISH CLUB fame was fabulous, as noted. The extra bag of fish, sous vide, we put on a plate and into the refrigerator, where it patiently waited until Friday. No hurry, no worry… the fish is cooked and in its juices, it can only get better.ff_bag_o_fish
I had this idea of using it in a fish soup, where I could make a soup base and just lay the cooked fillets on top to warm.

A few years ago, I found a recipe in the NYT for Fish Soup With Fennel and Pernod. It is written in two steps:

make a broth,
add the fish.

Just what would seem to work for this occasion. The reason it was written in two steps had to do with noisy cooking before the writers put their baby to bed and quiet warming after. (What newspapers and mags won’t do to concoct a fresh and plausible story.)

In any case, this recipe will work for me.

  1. Prep before Carol gets home,
  2. take a break for a cocktail with C,
  3. concoct an accompanying dish,
  4. finish the dinner.

Carol has been on my neck to use the three ears of corn in the refrigerator hidden on the very shallow shelf over the vegetable crisper; out of sight, out of mind. Now what to do with corn to go with a fish soup?

I found a recipe for “Skillet Corn” from 2005 NYT Magazine story about David Halberstam in my TO COOK folder.

Put an oiled cast iron skillet in the oven at 425° for 30 minutes. Cut and scrape kernels from 8 ears of corn. Add 2T cream and 1/4 cup flour, mix and dump in the skillet. Bake for 40 minutes.

Sounds preposterous. No wonder I haven’t used it in over six years. No time to experiment now. But I do like the idea of scraping all the corn goodness off the ear.

“Real Creamed Corn,” — a playing with corn essay by Edward Schneider and appearing on Mark Bittman’s NYT blog — sounded doable and fun. I especially liked the part about “it made… a mess (yay!) and yielded a nice wet mass.” So there’s nothing to do but get started.

FISH
A two-step deal, as noted above… and the first step has a few steps of its own —
ff_raw_veg
On the right, onion, celery, garlic and fennel pulsed gently in my little Braun Multimix, until chopped into a coarse paste.
On the left, the recipe called for:

1 cup canned tomato purée, prefer San Marzano
4 whole peeled canned tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, rinsed and chopped.

What the hell… I happen to have a flat of actual San Marzanos for my upcoming Tomato Saturday. I peeled and chopped four of those fresh babies. For the puree, I threw four more in the aforementioned Braun Multimix and whipped their ass into shape. This dish looks good already. Continue reading

PIG

CUESA pig class, a short, quick photo essay.

pig_dave

Break Down a Pig with Dave the Butcher ~ September 20

Dave the Butcher is back and he’s bringing half a pig, including the head! In this class sponsored by Urban Kitchen SF and CUESA, Dave will discuss pork butchery and its different cuts. You’ll find out why pork butt doesn’t come from where you’d expect… Then the class will break down the pig together. Students will take home a boning knife, the meat they butcher, and suggestions for preparing their specific cuts.

I volunteered to help with the CUESA class on Tuesday evening and took my camera, so I was up close and personal for most of the activity. Here’s what I can report:

pig1_head

The HEAD of the class… The whole rest of this pig probably weighed about 220 pounds.

relax and enjoy... your one will become many

relax and enjoy... your one will become many

Carcass of the half pig awaits…

Dave's tools of the trade

Dave's tools of the trade

Start with the foreshank… cut around the leg at the joint, then saw through the bone.

Start with the foreshank… cut around the leg at the joint, then saw through the bone.

Students take over and follow Dave’s instruction.

Move toward the rear, please…  cut loose the forequarter.

Move toward the rear, please… cut loose the forequarter.

WHACK goes mallet on cleaver to break loose a chop...

WHACK goes mallet on cleaver to break loose another chop...

Here’s a couple of nice looking chops, ready to wrap and take home. Yum.

Here’s a couple of nice looking chops, ready to wrap and take home. Yum.

pig8_wrapped_pig

At the end, we volunteers wrapped the meat for the students to take home. There will be some good eating this week.

Be sure and sign up for the CUESA newsletter so you won’t be left out the next time.

CURIOUSLY MELLOW

Polenta with sauce, bean salad

giants v padres

giants v padres

I went to the Giants game Wednesday and around the sixth inning, just after the the sun came out of the fog, texted my sons and sibs: “At the ballpark on a sunny September afternoon with beer and peanuts. Lovely.”

Tom replied, “Stylin’ you R.” True that. And the Giants won behind Timmy and two Beltran home runs, one his 300th career dinger and the ballpark’s 59th Splash Hit.

Home at nearly four. I had planned to do fish chowder or soup or something with the leftover Black Cod, but that would take some thought and energy, and why spoil a perfectly mellow day with that? I’ll just open a package of Fatted Calf Sugo di Carne. They call it, “rich and hearty meat sauce with a bite.” (Made from naturally raised pork and beef, pork broth, organic carrot, celery, onion, garlic, herbs, wine, sea salt and spices.) To me, this is an “emergency sauce” and I like to keep some on hand, in the meat drawer or freezer for just such an occasion. This time, I squeezed out 1/3 of the one pound package. I’ll just portion that over polenta. Again, in the spirit of mellowness, I walked down to Real Food and bought a tube of Food Merchants Organic Polenta. I could probably have made polenta in the time it took to go to Real Food, but I needed milk anyway, so what the hell. Celebrate sloth.

bean salad, polenta slices, lettuce plate

bean salad, polenta slices, lettuce plate

To go with, I have the leftover green bean and tomato dish from yesterday (recipe below). Yesterday, it was served hot to go with ham hash, but today, I’ll make a salad of that mixed with the prim manteca beans from Iacopi Farm I have in the fridge. Continue reading

FISH CLUB

Hacked Sous Vide Black Cod
I never thought of a fish club until Carol sent this Tasting Table entry to me, promoting SIREN Sea SA.

We’re in a few wine clubs, and get the Mariquita Mystery Box, and shop at the Farmers Market religiously, but there’s always been this problem with fish. I want it fresh when I eat it, so I don’t usually buy it at the Farmers Market when I shop on Saturday, I buy it at Whole Food on the day I want to serve it. But I don’t know how long Whole Food has had it or where it comes from or what’s really in season. This fish club would seem to answer those questions, with the caveat of having to pick up the fish on a given day and at a given place and time. (Turns out to be early Saturday afternoon.) Oh well, we’ll plan our fish eating around it. So I joined up.

Now, we’ll look forward to a mystery fish each week, but hey, Anna Larsen, the “fish lady” promises a recipe to go with the fish. So I joined on a Wednesday and on Saturday picked up my Black Cod and true to form, there was a recipe on their web site.

cod_bag
Not only that, Anna gave me this swell soft cooler and ice pack… the better to transport the fish. With short notice and so on, I stored the fish as directed and planned for Monday dinner.

Hacked Sous Vide Black Cod w/Tomato & Brussels Sprouts Ingredients (one serving)
– Black Cod w/skin, 6oz
etc. see recipe at sirenseasa.com

Oops… when I first read the recipe, I thought it was for the whole “shipment.” (Hey… my first *fish club* experience) Reasoning and pictures prevailed and I realized the recipe was for One Serving, so I doubled the recipe and cooked all the fish while I was at it.

skinning the cod

skinning the cod

Since I was cooking this on Monday night and had to deal with my beloved Patriots on Monday Night Football, I made a cooking schedule. Lucky for me, I got anxious and started early. Continue reading

Winging Breakfast

…in a world without eggs

Tuesday
Just back from four days in Reno to an “empty” refrigerator. Not empty, of course, but no “meal” food. We just drove for five hours and I took the car for a wash, so I’m not in the mood to expend energy making dinner. “Order a pizza,” is an obvious choice. But then I said to Carol, “I could get a jar of canned tomato sauce from the cellar, make some spaghetti.”
“There’s a beef patty left from last week’s sliders,” said Carol. Sounds like a plan.

The tomato sauce consisted of a pint of “Early Girl Raw” from last November. (Raw is when you have a few tomatoes, run ‘em through the food mill without cooking and can ‘em. I got that idea from the A16 Cookbook. They use “raw” San Marzano sauce for their pizza.) The raw sauce will take a little flavoring. Rough chop a shallot, two little carrots and a couple whacks of celery; put em in the mini-processor and chop fine. Saute that in some olive oil, until soft. Chop half the frozen patty, now almost soft, make a space in the center of your skillet, add the meat and brown. Mix that up with the vegetables, add a gurgle of red wine and cook until the wine is almost gone, add the sauce. Cook for a while, maybe 15 – 20 minutes to reduce and thicken. Meanwhile, get your spaghetti water going and cook the spaghetti. Get Carol to make a salad. Open a bottle of Cline California Zinfandel. Now that’s a damn fine and easy dinner. C said I should have added Italian seasoning. She’s probably right.

But that’s not what this is about. This is about Wednesday’s breakfast. Breakfast again? Yep… seems like that’s where I throw stuff together and invent. I’m not a milk and cereal guy – just put breakfast in the “search” box to check out previous breakfasts.

After my walk I opened the refrigerator. No eggs. I could mix up some Greek yogurt and Emerald Breakfast-on-the-go!, but that is not appetizing just now. In the fridge is the last of the grits, and beside them, some leftover grilled swordfish and green beans. Tomato sauce would be nice, but I used all of last night’s sauce. Wait! I have a can of Amy’s Organic Chunky Tomato Bisque in the drawer. That’ll work.

swordfish and beans, grits, tomato bisque

swordfish and beans, grits, tomato bisque

Just heat everything in my little skillet. On the plate, fish on top of grits, green beans beside, 2 or 3 tablespoons of tomato “sauce” spooned over. Now that’s a damn fine and easy breakfast.

breakfast without the sauce

breakfast without the sauce

with the sauce... looked so good, I already ate half

with the sauce... looked so good, I already ate half

Later, I went to Whole Foods to get squid for dinner, but I forgot to get eggs. DUH! So I’m in the same boat for my Thursday breakfast. I took a similar route… Still scraps of leftover swordfish – cubed that. Still a few green beans – chopped those. I have the leftover Amy’s Organic Chunky Tomato Bisque in the fridge. A good start.

Thursday’s cubed fish and chopped beans

Thursday’s cubed fish and chopped beans

I cubed my last Purple Viking potato and boiled it, added a couple whacks of celery halfway through the boiling.

fish and vegetables in the pan

fish and vegetables in the pan

I added about half of that to my fish and green beans and into the frying pan and spooned Amy’s tomato soup over that. Now is that a soup, or fish and vegetables with a sauce? Clue: I ate it with a fork.

b2_served
That was good, but I’m definitely going to get some eggs today at the Thursday CUESA Market while I get something for dinner today and tomorrow.

b2_egg

For Friday’s breakfast, I took the leftovers from Thursday dinner and put a flipped egg over it. It’s amazing how much richness and wonderfulness an egg can add. And I only use one.

b2_friday
Thursday dinner: summer squash saute, Burgers’ Smokehouse Pork Rope Sausage, beans with tomatoes. For Friday, I used 3 slices of sausage, about a quarter-cup each of squash and beans… and that egg.

GRITS 2 WAYS

Sometimes, just before waking up, before the alarm goes off, my mind starts going: where will I walk today? What will I make for breakfast? What day is this? Is anything going on? If its sunny, the Marina would be good, but it hasn’t been sunny in the morning in weeks. Have leftover grits… I could open the bacon… what will I put over grits? Tradition calls for shrimp and gravy, but I don’t have any of that. Don’t have any tomato sauce open either… I could chop a tomato and make sauce… what if I sliced a tomato and just heated it… put that over the grits? Hmmm… worth a try.

I got up and made coffee. Out the window, it’s not sunny on Union Street, but it’s too early for the sun to be over Russian Hill. When I went out the door and looked down the street, “Its sunny in the Marina!” I said to anybody around. A woman was about to cross Polk Street, but I doubt she heard me.

I had a good walk — in the sun on some streets and the Palace of Fine Arts. Lovely day to make some grits and tomatoes.

Palace of Fine Arts designed by Bernard Maybeck for the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition.

Palace of Fine Arts designed by Bernard Maybeck for the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition.

Last night, I actually made the grits. I had the idea I would poach my cod in a ginger-soy poaching mixture so I have this cod on my plate in a pool; around the pool is a wall of grits. Off to the side — or better, in the corner of the plate — I could array my haricot vert tossed with blue cheese and pecans. It didn’t exactly work out that way, as you shall see, the grits were a bit too loose, so they made kind of a pillow for the cod. Things don’t always work out visually the first time, but everything tasted real good.

cod poached in ginger soy liquid with scallion and cilantro

cod poached in ginger soy liquid with scallion and cilantro

So, this morning I got out the bacon, grits and a tomato. I fried the bacon and drained on a paper towel, poured off a little bacon fat and put the grits in the skillet. All I need is to warm them, they’re not going to make a nice crust no matter what. Bacon onto the plate and the grits over that and the plate in the oven to keep warm while I cook the tomatoes.
g_grits_bacon
At this point, I could put a flipped egg on the grits and that would be breakfast; the comforting taste of the egg and grits becoming one. Today, I put the sliced tomatoes in the skillet to warm in a little olive oil.

g_tomatoes_cook
Once warm, just slide the hot tomatoes onto the plate over the grits and bacon.

g_tomatoes_over

Salt and pepper makes breakfast. And a darned good one. Yum

Quick Cheese Grits
Adapted from the back of Albers Quick Grits box/mr
For four    yield 3 cups

3 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup grits
my additions –
1/2 cup buttermilk
6 ounces sharp white cheddar, shredded
1 1/2 tablespoons butter

Bring 3 cups water to a boil in orange le Creuset pot (two-quart heavy pot), slowly stir in grits.
Cover pot, reduce heat to low. Cook, stirring occasionally for 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in buttermilk.
Off heat, stir in cheese and butter.

Cod With Ginger and Soy
Mark Bittman NYT White Fish Recipes 7/11

Put a large, deep skillet over medium heat; add 2 tablespoons vegetable oil and 1 tablespoon minced ginger; cook until sizzling. Add 1 1/2 pounds fish, ½ cup soy sauce, 1½ cups water, ½ cup chopped scallions, ½ cup chopped cilantro and a teaspoon rice vinegar. Boil, cover and turn off heat. Fish will be done in about 10 minutes. Garnish: Chopped scallions.
Cook’s NOTE: Don’t be fooled by the brevity of this recipe, prep takes a long time, a lot of chop chop.