Anatomy of a Christmas Dinner

Rosemary-And-Pepper Standing Rib Roast With Two-Mushroom Pan Sauce, Roasted Root Vegetables and Harvard Beets

It was Christmas day.

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Three days earlier I bought a 3 rib, 8-pound Prime Rib of Beef at Golden Gate Meat Company. That big beauty was air drying in the refrigerator. The recipe I had selected to roast it called for 3 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves and I had overlooked that small item. I didn’t have enough shallots, either. The only store open on Christmas day was Safeway (until 4 p.m.), so I went. No thyme, no shallots. I asked the produce guy and he said, “It’s Christmas, the warehouse is closed.” Hmmm, I bought a bunch of rosemary.

When I got home, I looked on epicurious.com for another recipe. I found Rosemary-And-Pepper Standing Rib Roast With Two-Mushroom Pan Sauce; rated 4-forks with three cooks raving about its goodness. Worth a try, and I had a package of dried Porcini mushrooms, but no fresh mushrooms. Back to Safeway. There were three empty risers in the place where the fresh mushrooms live. I looked for canned mushrooms, but not with any enthusiasm; I didn’t find them. I could live with that, it’s only the gravy. Continue reading

Are Grits Groceries?

My first real architecture job, after college and the Navy, was at Hayes Seay Mattern & Mattern Architects and Engineers in Roanoke, Virginia. I was situated in a big drafting room of about 30 drafting stations, next to Art, an old-timer architectural draftsman. Sometimes on Friday afternoon when we were mentally into the weekend, things would get silly, and Art would shout out a cliché, “The sun is over the yardarm!” Someone else would chime in, “Ugly as a mud fence!” And another might say, “That dog won’t hunt!” and on and on around the room until we ran out of steam or it got to be five o’clock, whichever came first. My favorite was, “Are grits groceries?” often contributed near the end by Art, himself. Nobody could provide a definition, in the South it could have any number of meanings, but it makes you think. I just looked it up on Clichésite but its not listed.

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What I’m thinking about is Shrimp ‘n’ Grits, which I sampled for the first time that I can remember in a small restaurant in Atlanta, while visiting my brother, Tom. That was a bowl of grits with small barbecued shrimp arrayed on top, and it was good. Real good. Continue reading

Rice

real_food_rice.jpgI stood in front of the rice bins at Real Food, a San Francisco organic grocery store. The labels read: SHORT GRAIN WHITE RICE, BASMATI WHITE RICE, BROWN BASMATI RICE, ARBORIO RICE, JASMINE WHITE RICE, SHORT GRAIN BROWN RICE, SUSHI RICE, BROWN & WILD RICE, and WILD RICE. There was no Long Grain White Rice. I always thought that was “regular rice,” which is what I thought I wanted to buy. A twenty-something woman walked by and asked if I needed help. I said, “Which one is regular white rice?” She looked at the bins and looked at me and looked baffled. “Maybe the Basmati?” she said. I could go for that, but the Basmati bin was empty.
Continue reading

Carol Cooks a Turkey

, and Markie Makes a Chicken

Carol Cooks a Turkey
Carol was pissed. Our Thanksgiving host prides himself in his turkey, so she had no leftover turkey to enjoy. (I’m not partial to LO turkey, myself.) So she went out and bought her a nine pound turkey and snared a recipe from the techno-wacko Alton Brown of the Food Network.

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So here’s the turkey, ready for its apple and onion and rosemary stuffing.

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Once stuffed, oil that baby up for the oven, Continue reading

The Best Meatloaf of All Time

K-Paul Meatloaf

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My hardcover copy of Chef Paul Prudhomme’s Louisiana Kitchen is dogeared, foodstained and some of the pages are coming out of the binding. It is inscribed, “From Robert and Katy, 1984,” and it is still a “top shelf” cookbook in my kitchen library.

I prize it because the recipes have a zing to them and it contains the best meatloaf recipe of all time. Paul Prudhomme calls it Cajun Meat Loaf and it’s on page 112 after Cajun Prime Rib and followed by Fresh Veal Liver with Mashed Potatoes, Smothered Onions and Bacon. I call it K-Paul Meatloaf.

I am a lover of good meatloaf, and its first cousin, meatballs. I have tried countless such recipes over the years, 13 remain in my database, and probably an equal number in my Cookbook collection; most are good. K-Paul Meatloaf is the best.

What is meatloaf anyway, but ground meat, bread, egg, milk and seasoning. It can be hard and dull or rich, moist and full of flavor, depending on the “other stuff” that goes into the mixing bowl.

Continue reading

Sirloin Tip

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This is a picture of a sliced sirloin tip with baby mustard greens and sliced radishes. Ummm good.

I wanted to cook the sirloin tip like a steak. I’ve done Hanger steaks, guided by Anthony Bourdain’s Onglet Gascon recipe in his excellent Les Halles Cookbook, and finished them in the oven while making a pan sauce. Those are up to one inch thick at their thickest, and I’ve gone with his times — two minutes a side to brown and 5 minutes in the oven for rare, 8 minutes for medium rare. For this meal, I didn’t bother with a pan sauce. [Anthony Bourdain does this dish with bone marrow, as well as the hanger steak, but I left that out, too.]

My meat, Sirloin Tips from Marin Sun Farms; two hunks of meat about 2 inches at their thickest, tapering to about an inch, were more like small roasts than steaks, weighing a little over a pound, total. I browned them in butter in the cast iron skillet for about 2 minutes a side and finished in a roasting pan in the toaster oven at 400 degrees until the internal temperature reached 130 degrees, about 10 minutes. That was a little on the rare side and chewy, but the flavor was very beefy and good. We ate one and had one, unsliced, leftover, to die for. The leftovers provided two meals, a hash and a steak salad. Not bad, and all for about twelve bucks.

I bought the baby Mustard Greens at the Mariquita Farm stand at the Farmers Market. They were sautéed in olive oil for about 5 minutes while the steak was in the oven and then drizzled with a little vinegar. I bought the red and white radishes at the Eatwell Farm stand, and just sliced them raw for a quick, bright, crunchy complement to the greens. I drizzled the good Stonehouse olive oil over the finished plate to enrich and pull everything together.

Ummm good.